Easter Tour 2018 - Greece

Over the last 20 years, Greek sport climbing has come to the forefront of the climbing world. The limestone tufa’s of Kalymnos have become the byword for quality European climbing. A decade on, and a new jewel in the crown of European climbing has come into fruition in the Peloponnese gorges: Leonidio. Following the impassioned works of a local climbing collective, and development grants supplied by the EU sports, the gorge around Leonidio has become home to over 2000 bolted routes, along with a collection of long trad multipitches. This bounty of gorgeous lines was how 11 members of the Imperial College Outdoor Club found themselves touching down into Kalamata airport, on the 27thof March, for a week of climbing. An uncomfortable 3 hour drive crammed into far too small rental cars, brought them to the tiny coastal town of Sampatiki, 10 minutes away from Leonidio.

Day 1 -  27th March – Arrival and sector Sabaton

Upon arrival, the group checked into the apartments, hosted by the indomitable Mrs Rena. If you are ever in this area of Greece and need an ever cheerful purveyor of local knowledge and discount codes, Rena is the person to see. Eager to get on rock after a long days travel, the group set off to sector Sabaton, only 10 minutes up the road, with a quick walk in. From there on out it was good climbing on solid rock, with the club getting back into the swing of climbing on Greek limestone. Myriam, Aina, Jonny and Noé lead two pleasant 5bs, Gabriel and Elektra, while Marco and Mimis battled with an intense 6b called Dreamare. Joanna and Salomé tackled an interesting 5c, which they all renamed “Joanna’s Project”. Micol and Gareth had fun on a long 5c traverse, Podikos, which ended up with Micol taking a long swing while clearing the route.

Day 2 - 28th March – Mad Wall

On the second day, the group headed off to sector Mad Wall, which has a very steep approach, typical of most of the crags in Leonidio. Everyone warmed up on long but easy slabs, Rolling Stones and Vlaka Tony, taking advantage of the spectacular view of the sea and the valley, to shoot some breathtaking pictures. Everyone put in a good effort, which resulted in a clean send of the 6a+ I am a Hero, by Micol, Mimis and Salomé. The climbing day was interrupted too soon by the rain, and the group headed back to Sampatiki, to get some deserved rest.

Day 3 - 29th March – Kokkinovrachos: Red Rock and Hospital

Kokkinovrachos, which means “red cliff” is a massive red limestone face, rising above the north side of Leonidio, and probably is the most famous and spectacular sector of the area. Being 250 meters tall, Kokkinovrachos features both bolted long multi-pitches, and a variety of single-pitch sectors. On the third day the group headed off to the sectors Red Rock and Hospital, but the approach revealed itself to be not only extremely steep, but also quite complicated, resulting in everyone getting lost in the bushes of thorns. Eventually, the group arrived at the base of the crag, where Joanna, Marco and Salomé threw themselves on a 3-pitch 6a+, called Madri. In the meantime, Mimis and Tom climbed a 2-pitch 6a+, while the others decided to stick to single-pitch routes. Micol lead a 40m long 6a+, Efharisto, while Jonny and Noé enjoyed themselves on a 5c called Pretty Woman.

Day 4 - 30th March – Sabaton

Due to fatigue and laziness, on the 4th day the group decided to go back to the close and easily approachable sector Sabaton, and, despite the limited number of routes, the day proved to be very intense. Mostly everyone, some on lead others on top rope, decided to tackle Savra, a 15m long 7a, and all of those who tried it, put up a good show of technique, strength and determination. After cooling down on easier climbs, the group abandoned the crag, and drove to the beach, for a refreshing dip in the Aegean Sea.

Day 5 - 31st March – Kokkinovrachos: Megakante multipitch and Douvari

On the 5th day the group split up, Salomé and Gareth ventured on Mignonette (sector Megakante), a 5c+ 8-pitch multipitch, while the others headed off to sector Douvari. Aina brillantly lead and cleaned her first  outdoor 6a, Noé proved himself to be a fearless climber, while Joanna fell in love with a route called Higgs Boson. Mimis, Tom and Marco did some very good 6as and 6bs, including one called El Greco. Gareth’s and Salomé’s multipitch ended up taking longer than expected, due to overcrowding of the route and unclear abseil, but they both had and amazing time.

Day 6 - 1st April – Skiadianiko

The group headed off to sector Skiadianiko, further into the mainland, which took a 30-minute long drive, interrupted by herds of Greek goats. The crag proved to be impressive and windy, and everyone climbed hard, despite the tiredness of the previous days starting to kick in. Myriam and Aina lead a very nice 5c called Sushi, Joanna and Salomè climbed 6a Primera, followed by Micol and Gareth. Marco, Tom and Mimis battled against a tough 6c, called Eye of the Tiger.

Day 7 - 2nd April – Kokkinovrachos: Orama, Rock Spot and Douvari

On the last day of climbing, the group decided to go back to Kokkinovrachos, in the neighbouring sectors of Orama, Rock Spot and Douvari. Once again the approach was tough and steep, but despite the tiredness and the heat, everyone climbed hard. Aina and Micol brillantly lead Amandine, a delightful 6a, Joanna, Tom and Salomé battled with a 6c, while Noé and Gareth conquered a 6b called Michael Bachtis. All in all, it was a great conclusion to an amazing week of climbing.

Day 8 - 3rd April – Back to London

Early rise and 3-hour drive back to Kalamata, and a sleepy flight back to London.

Budget

• Flights  £70 per person both ways
• Food  £5-10 per person per day
• Accommodation  £85 per person for the whole week
• Car Hire  £70 per car per week